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VENUE CAPE – 14. Oct 17

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The naming value of a rose worth R 100 000.00.

Registration of the specially selected rose at the Department of Agriculture of SA and the International Registration Authority in the USA.

Inclusion in our annual catalogue, which is received by 75 000 South Africans and other promotional activities on the farm and on our web site.

20 plants of the new variety.

Certificate of the rose variety named after you.

The plants are offered for sale at Ludwig’s Rose branches country wide.


Green Summer Pruning

January is the right time to green summer prune your rose bushes. Let Ludwig show you how easy it is to do in this short video!

Green Summer Pruning is applied to tidy the bushes up, bring tall ones down in height and to stimulate quality growth and blooms for autumn.

Without much grooming or pruning, the bushes would have grown dense with lots of twigs and will be flowering magnificently. Carrying out green summer pruning however will result in the remaining blooms becoming larger. Opening up the densely leaved sections will allow light and air inside the bush and diminish black spot defoliation.

Black Spot in centre of bush

Without green summer pruning black spot easily infects the centre of the bush.

When carrying out green summer pruning each bush needs to be considered individually and treated according to its past performance and what is expected for ongoing growth and flowering.

The overall consideration when carrying out green summer pruning is to retain a good balance of remaining leaves. Leaves are absolutely important to maintain a good sap flow – water pushed up from the roots and flowing back to the roots.

Strong sap flow keeps a plant cool. However too many leaves absorb a lot of water, loose much of it by transpiration and the bush becomes lazy in sprouting and producing quality blooms.

If you were to cut off too many leaves, the sap flow within the stems would slow down and cease. The sap then is heated up to such an extent that it almost starts to boil within the plant. The cambium tissue beneath the bark is then scorched – this is known as sunburn or stem canker. Leaves are not only needed to regulate the sap flow but also shade the stems and branches. So, if your roses are experiencing sunburn, water well, don’t fertilise and pinch back all buds to stimulate sprouting further down the main stems.


Sunburn or stem canker can devastate the plant. See how it is fighting back by sprouting a new red shoot.

These images give a good idea of how to apply green summer pruning:

Fairest Cape

If the spent blooms on this ‘Fairest Cape’ were just left on the bush, it would take forever for new shoots and buds to appear.

Fairest Cape

3 days after dead heading, the sprouting is already evident.

dead heading on Garden Queen  before

Before dead heading ‘Garden Queen’.

dead heading on Garden Queen  after

The stems of the dead headed, spent blooms will sprout one to two new blooms.

Rose bushes before they are green summer pruned.

After they have been tidied up and readied for sprouting and flower power in autumn.








Before full of hips.

Every receptacle on this bush has made a hip (fruit) after the petals have fallen off and would not flower again this season.

After summer green pruning has been applied, the remaining stems will bear quality shoots and large blooms.

Green summer pruning a semi denuded bush.

The leaves on the remaining stems are retained. This is of extreme importance!

Various stages of single stem samples to guide you on where to cut.

This is how they should look after you have summer green pruned these individual stems on the bush.

Slightly more mature single stem samples.

Here the “grooming” has been applied.

This Floribunda ‘Forever Busy’ that is full of all stages of blooms and buds does not have to be green summer pruned or dead headed.

If you pick cut roses regularly, the bushes do not need to be green summer pruned. The picking automatically encourages quality new sprouting.

There is no need to green summer prune Iceberg or spreading groundcover roses as they grow sideways into the light.

Climbers are tied and trained, they are not green summer pruned.

Enjoy the challenge, your roses will thank you for it!

Miss Rose Black® bag

Miss Rose BLACK® Ladies Shoulder Sling Bag

organized for life on the go…with you tech always protected.


Embark on your executive entrepreneurial lifestyle with bags by BLACK®.

Integrate roses into your everyday life!

This case ensures your 15.6” laptop is safely cushioned within a padded compartment, with extra, organized compartments for your day-to-day essentials.
Lightweight and durable, made with water resistant nylon and reinforced stitching, guarantees you have a hard-working, good-looking bag that protects                                                                      your tech on the move.

BLACK® goes everywhere…

Product Specifications:

  • Exterior dimensions:  45 x 30 x 10cm
  • Weight:  200 grams
  • Material:  Nylon
  • Color:  Garden Rose Motive
  • Adjustable shoulder straps and handle included
  • Includes workstation
  • Smartphone + tablet pocket
  • Cable + laptop pocket
  • Price: R490.00 in store
  • Price: R615.00 (web purchase incl counter to counter speed postage)

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vb070_160x vb106_160x vb109_160x


White fly

white fly damage to leaves

Severe white fly damage to rose leaves.

When: White fly infestations can occur from summer to autumn, but they are uncommon to settle on roses.

Where: country wide

Remedy: Apply Koinor as a drench. Watch this video on how to apply Koinor. Spray with Plant Care. The rape oil contained in Ludwig’s Insect Spray which is the main ingredient of our main Cocktail should smother the white fly. It is a very soft insecticide to use.

Frequency: Weekly spraying over two weeks should put an end to them. One application of Koinor will also do the trick.

Effect on plant: The effect of a White Fly infestation is reduced growth through a considerable loss of sap and nutrients sucked from the phloem as well as the lack of photosynthesis once a black fungus settles on the honeydew that is secreted out of the white fly and dripped onto the leaves below

Info: Whiteflies are small Hemipterans that typically feed on the undersides of plant leaves..

Alternative combat: Washing the underside of the leaves with a sunlight liquid emulsion. Lady birds as beneficial insects that prey on the white fly.

If no action is taken: Reduced growth through a considerable loss of sap and nutrients sucked from the phloem as well as the lack of photosynthesis once a black fungus settles on the honeydew that is secreted out of the white fly and dripped onto the leaves below.


White Fly and Soot on leaves

It is not often that white fly make an appearance on roses. If it does happen, the first obvious sign that White Flies have found the rose as a suitable host and feeder plant is a black fungus growing on the leaves.

The White Fly (Trialeurodes vaporariorum and Bemisisa tabaci) does not belong to the family of flies (Dipteres or two wing flies) but has four wings and the development stages are quite different to that of most other insects. That is why they cannot be controlled or eradicated with the usual insecticides.

There are 1200 known types of White Flies that are mostly active in warm and tropical regions. They can fly and jump. The adult white fly is about 1.5 mm large and is covered with a white powdery wax-like layer over the whole body, except the eyes. The wax is produced by four wax glands under the body and is quickly spread out with its legs.

The development goes through six stages: egg – four larvae and nymph stages – one pupae stage to adult stage.

Fertilised eggs produce males while unfertilised eggs produce females. The female sucks on the underside of the leaves during the egg laying period. She produces eggs with ‘studs’, which are embedded in the leaf and are kept fresh by absorbing moisture through the stud. The first stage larvae moves  around the leaf until it finds an open suction point and there it stays throughout its development into the pupae stage. This is not a completely dormant (pupa) period, because the pupae still suck sap until just before hatching into an adult White Fly. The total cycle takes about 22 days in our summer.

The effect of a White Fly infestation is reduced growth through a considerable loss of sap and nutrients sucked from the phloem as well as the lack of photosynthesis once a black fungus settles on the honeydew that is secreted out of the white fly and dripped onto the leaves below (the secretion of honeydew by a heavy population of White Fly in 1 hectare of cotton is about 300 kg.). White Fly is also a known virus carrier.

Insecticides with the active ingredients of imidacloprid and piriproksifen are effective to combat the white fly. Neem Oil, Rape Oil (Ludwig’s Insect spray) and White Fly Insecticide (piriproksifen) are available to gardeners.


Thrips are a type of invisible plague to roses and many other ornamental and even fruit and vegetable plants!

They can be tough customers to get rid of once they have invaded your roses – but with the right advice and by spraying with effective insecticides it can be done.


thrips damage

Visible damage to the the petal edges.

To control thrips, it is essential to add an insecticide to every spray cocktail, and to spray thoroughly in order to make good contact with the larvae or insect. The smell of garlic contained in Ludwig’s Insect Spray is a deterrent to thrips.

When: Prevalent in drier periods, but can occur any time of the year.

Where: country wide / world wide

Remedy: Apply Koinor as a drench in September. Watch this video on how to apply Koinor. Alternate with including Cyper and Plant Care into your spray cocktails. It is important to spray thoroughly in order to make good contact with the larvae and insect on the leaves and in the blooms. The smell of garlic contained in Ludwig’s Insect Spray which is the main ingredient of our main Cocktail is a deterrent to thrips. However if you see the damage to your roses you need to include the above named insecticides into the mix.

Frequency: Weekly over three weeks if you can see visible damage. A regular spray program preventatively keeps thrips at bay.

Effect on plant: Damage to bloom as petals take on an ugly appearance as the chew marks and scars become pronounced when the petals unfold. Damage to young growth so that leaves clearly looked deformed and shrivelled up.

Info: Thrips are tiny, winged insects that settle between the petals of tight buds and start rasping the petal edges.

They can damage the petals of each bloom on the plant. The damage is more visible on lighter coloured roses.  Serious damage includes the deformation of young leaves and growth.

The breeding cycle stretches from eggs that develop in the soil, through two larval stages on the leaves, to the mature insect in the flower.

They are able to fly and are easily carried by the wind.

Other plants and weeds may act as host plants from which they easily fly or blow into your roses.

Roses are one of their delicacies. You can imagine them to be to plants what mosquitos are to humans.

Alternative combat: none

If no action is taken: Blooms look “ugly” and leaves may look deformed. Rose does not perform as it should.

thrips damage to opening bud

This blemish was caused by thrips before the sepals opened.

Thrips damage on ther unopened bud

Thrips damage on the yet to open bud.

thrips damage on bud and within the bloom

Thrips damage to bud and within the bloom.

thrips punctured the very immature leaves causing curling

Thrips punctured the very immature leaves causing curling.


Thrips chew away on both side of a leaf the marks seen are scar formation

Thrips damage severe and unchecked! They chew away on both sides of the leaves. The marks seen are scar formation.

after spraying the new leaves are free of thrips.

After spraying the new leaves are free of any thrips damage.

THRIPS – article by Alan Brimer

As a language person I’m entertained by the fact that the singular and plural forms of the word ‘thrips’ are the same: one thrips, two or more thrips!  There can’t be many words like that in the English language.  As interesting as that may be, it’s irrelevant to what happens in the garden.

Some of our members have phoned me recently (I’m writing this in mid September) and asking me to tell them why the new foliage on their rose bushes is gnarled.  (Telephonic diagnoses are hit and miss affairs. I’d rather avoid them.) I myself have a bad infestation of thrips in my own garden, and stupidly failed to make a connection between what’s happening in my garden and what might be happening in our members’ gardens. Sorry!  It’s possible that you may have thrips too.

If in your garden you find a gnarled young bloom with brownish blotches on the petals, snap it off the cane, take it inside the house, turn it upside down over a bright surface such as a sheet of white paper, ands give it a smart rap.  If you’ve got thrips they will fall out of the bloom onto the paper, where you will see a number of minute elongated winged insects walking about aimlessly. Thrips!


This is a diagram of the Western Flower Thrips, which is the variety we’re likely to have in our gardens.  There are actually about 6000 different sorts of thrips in the world, but this is the one that particularly likes roses.  Of course, this is a huge magnification.  The actual insects are no more than 1mm or 2 mm in length.  The females are amber or yellowish-brown to dark brown in colour, and the males are a bit smaller and are light yellow.  Both genders have serated wings and piercing mouths.  They feed on pollen and on the sap of petals, which they extract by sucking or by vibrating their wings in between the closely compressed petals, thus damaging them and causing them to exude sap.  This causes the brown blotches on the blooms.  They also feed on young foliage, slashing the surface and sucking the contents of the cells, distorting the growth as the leaf tissue expands, and causing the plant to produce blind shoots rather than buds.  Damaged leaves may be puckered and twisted.

Females insert eggs into succulent host plant tissue, the eggs develop into two successive larval stages, then into pupae, and then into adults.  The process takes about 13 days in ordinary weather.  (It’s faster in hotter weather and slower in colder weather.)  Adults live about 28 days and lay an average of 44 eggs!

Some of the literature advises that you plant garlic among your rose bushes or spray with a garlic-impregnated oil for various reasons including the possibility that it will disguise the perfume of the roses and so keep the various insect pests from finding them.  I don’t know if that works or not but it’s certainly not going to help if you already have an infestation.

I’ve had no success whatsoever in my attempts to get rid of my thrips, and as I write this I’m worrying about whether or not I’ll have any blooms to exhibit at our Spring Show.  The reasons why thrips are virtually impossible to get rid of are because their lurking places in between the petals of tight flower or leaf buds shelter them from contact insecticides, because they’re immune to many systemic insecticides, and because they build up immunity to contact insecticides rather quickly.  But even if we can’t get rid of them altogether, we may be able to control them successfully.

We may or may not!  I’ve tried just about everything that one is advised to do, without success, and now I’m going to have to try again, but as always with a slight difference.  Reading most of the literature on the web and everything my books say about this topic, I think the thing to do may be to try to interrupt the life cycle of the insects (as one has to do with white-fly and red spider-mite).  Weather and time permitting, I’m going to spray every five days for two or three weeks, varying the insecticide, and lacing it with sugar (Esther Geldenhuys’ tip, which is echoed in some web pages) to try to lure the insects out of their hidey holes.  As thrips don’t feed until they reach the pupal stage, it’s possible that I have in the past wiped out successive generations of the creatures, only to have them continuously replaced by the next generation in line – which might be the explanation for my thinking that all of my spraying was having no effect.

I’ll keep you posted about whether or not this succeeds.  Meanwhile, why don’t you try the trick with the sheet of paper?  You might be surprised by what you see!


Termites can attack a rose bush and ring bark it. The bark is eaten close to where the main stem comes out of the ground.

ring barked by termites

When: Prevalent in drier periods, but can occur any time of the year.

Where: common in coastal KZN and Midrand, Gauteng.

Remedy: apply Karbadust or Blue Death powder at bottom of holes prior to planting. Applying these insecticide or Plant Care, Termidor, Chlorphiriphos or Dursban to the root area as a drench.

Frequency: every 4 months.

Effect on plant: death as the phloem would be severed and food can no longer flow to the roots.

Info: Termites in search of moisture that happen to find rose bushes growing happily, have no qualms in attacking and ring barking the rose bush. If you experience such problems in your garden, it is easily solved by applying an insecticide regularly as per the above recommendation.

Alternative combat: none

If no action is taken: rose perishes

Termites or White Ants by Lyn Keppler (the rose lady of Natal)

In the warm winter areas of Natal we have termites that eat and ringbark the roses throughout the year.  The only way we can prevent the termites eating the roses is to apply poison like Dursban or Chlorpiriphos every three months to the base of the rose bush and the poison must touch the stems at the base of the rose.

Flying ants are future kings and queens, who have wings for the sole purpose of leaving the nest in order to make a new nest away from the original one.  They usually come out of the nest after rain, as they need soft soil to make their new nest.  The wings are shed in a second and the female sends signals to attract the male and if the female is isolated she will put her bottom in the air and send signals that will attract a flying male from as far away as two kilometers.  He will find her, shed his wings and they will immediately start looking for a new nest, perhaps in your garden.  She will then lay her eggs and thousands of termites will hatch.  Newly planted roses as well as established roses and other woody plants attract them.  Termites are blind and will often travel 3 inches below the soil, they also never sleep and will eat day and night.  If the queen is killed or removed the whole termite nest dies.  One can only prevent termites from eating by treating all woody plants with ant poison.  Once termites have ring barked a rose they seem to vanish, you will never find termites after the damage has been done.  People are often mystified because they see no ants and they wonder why the rose has died.  The rose is often ring barked just below the surface, sometimes the roots are eaten as well.

Termites eat briar as well as the rose.  There is an old wives tale that termites do not eat briar and that was why, in the past, roses were planted with the bud-onion 3 inches above the soil.  In Durban, many years ago, roses were planted in 4-gallon paraffin tins to prevent termite attack

When I went looking for the records of the Botanical Gardens to see what roses they grew in 1865, I was told that there were none as the white ants had destroyed them.

rose borer wasp damage

rose borer wasp damage

If you notice holes that have been made into your rose stems, then you can be sure that the rose stem borer has been visiting.

hole made by rose borer wasp




Prevalent after pruning, but can occur any time of the year




Seal stems with Steriseal, PVA paint or mud after cutting




Usually once should suffice to make the wasps move on


Effect on plant:



Not very detrimental as stem will sprout from eyes below and above


The wasps drill a 2-3 cm hole into the pith of rose stems. They do this to lay their eggs into the hollow. The eggs are protected and it is a suitable environment for the eggs to hatch into grubs.


Alternative combat:



Accept their presence


If no action is taken:



The rose will sprout from the eyes below the hollowed out part of the affected stems

rose borer wasps drill 2cm

The wasp drills a tunnel only approximately 3 cm deep.

rose borer wasp

The wasp in action.

rose borer wasp

A close up of the wasp in the hollowed out tunnel in the middle of the rose stem.

Rose chafer beetle (eats blooms)

Fruit chafer beetle

The Rose chafer beetle, fruit chafer beetle or African fruit beetle just loves devouring rose buds. They have their preference and we wish we knew exactly what attracted them to a specific variety in a field of a thousand.

Fruit chafer beetle







Spray with Plant Care on entire plant & directly onto beetles if possible


Frequency to spray:


Once a week till damage stops.
Effect on plant:


Blooms look like they have been feasted on; effect on growth and re-sprouting not really noticeable.




Rose Chafer beetles can smell your roses from kilometres away.  They are a nuisance but they do disappear after a while.


Alternative combat:


Good way of getting rid of them is to pay children a small fee for each beetle cought. One can simply smack them from the bud into a small bucket with water and a little cooking oil.
If no action is taken:


The blooms of the specific varieties they attack will have devoured petals.

Fruit chafer beetle

Fruit chafer beetle


Fruit chafer beetle grub

The grubs chew on rose roots and can cause serious damage. Drenching with Plant Care or Cyper should get rid of the grubs.

Chafer beetles

Chafer beetle laced leaves

If your rose bush looks anything like this, then Chafer beetles have been eating away at your leaves during the night. That is why one doesn’t necessarily see the beetles causing the damage.












Spray with Plant Care on entire plant & on soil around roses. Dust with Karbadust or Blue Death onto leaves.



Frequency to spray:



Once a week till damage stops.


Effect on plant:



Rose survives & recovers quickly after spraying.






Beetles bury themselves in the ground in the day.  Beetles like gardens with trees and sheltered areas as they can hide in the trees during the day.

When leaf tissue edges becomes brown, beetles have stopped eating rose leaves.



Alternative combat:



Insect lamp / bug zapper close to roses.



If no action is taken:



The rose’s leaves ability to photosynthesise is compromised, but once the beetles move on the rose does eventually recover. Flowering will be slower then usual.


laced leaves by chafer beetle

Chafer beetle laced leaves

Chafer beetle laced leaves Beetles have moved on!


Caterpillars that chew holes and tunnels through your rose blooms are referred to as bollworms.

A female moth lays her eggs onto the usually still closed bud. When the caterpillars hatch from their eggs they start feeding on the blooms.

As they feed they grow and go through various instars before they eventually pupate in the ground and fulfill their life cycle by becoming moths.


The only way to prevent or cure bollworms is to spray with a suitable insecticide: Plantcare or Cyper


bollworm damage

A close up of a bollworm and damage caused to a bloom by it.

bollworm on a bloom

One needs to spray thoroughly into the bloom and onto and all around the buds.

Bollworm & droppings

Bollworm & its droppings